palmitoyl oligopeptide

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Palmitoyl oligopeptide is similar to Palmitoyl Pentapeptide, as it also stimulates the synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid in the deep layers of the skin. It is a new amino-peptide (five amino acids linked together and attached to a fatty acid). Researchers have found that palmitolyl oligopeptides, when added to a culture of fibroblasts (key skin cells), stimulates collagen, elastin and glucosaminoglycans production. These are the key components of healthy-looking skin.

It also provides mild UV protection that helps protect the skin from sun damage. (You still need to use a sunscreen everyday!) It was developed as the result of research to duplicate the effects of retinoic acid (retinol) without skin irritation.

Is is clinically proven to reduce wrinkle depth by increasing hyaluronic acid and collagen production. Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a protein that is a fragment of collagen combined with palmitic acid to make it more lipophillic, to improve its stability and to enhance its affinity towards human skin. As with Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, one could look at PO as a man-made precursor to collagen. PO was developed through research to identify a substance that would behave similarly to retinoic acid but without its drawbacks, especially in regards to synthesizing collagen.

The reported results are as follows: In vitro: Increases collagen production by the fibroblasts by as much as 350%. Increases hyaluronic acid production by the fibroblasts by as much as 146%. In vivo: The following statistics were gathered using image analysis of volunteers who used crèmes containing a 3% concentration of Biopeptide-CL for 28 days. A group of volunteers used a cream with 3% Oligopeptide for 28 days. These statistics were reported following image analysis of the volunteers:

• Surface roughness Reduced 17%
• Mean depth of wrinkles Reduced 23%
• Depth of main wrinkle Reduced 39%
• Skin thickness Increased 4%

The increase in skin thickness was considered especially notable and contrasts with the 6% reduction of the skin thickness that occurs after 10 years of aging. The study concludes to state that PO is a potent active cosmetic ingredient without the adverse effects (including irritation, dehydration or long-term toxicity and instability) characteristic of retinoids.

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