palmitic acid

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A fatty acid found naturally in the skin barrier; together with ceramides and cholesterol it protects the skin against penetrating substances from the outside. It is used as the basis for many palmitiate ingredients, such as isopropyl palmitate. Palmitic acid has many functions in cosmetics, from detergent cleansing agent to emollient. In a cleanser, it has the potential to be drying depending on what it is combined with and the cleanser's pH level.

In moisturizers, palmitic acid is a very good emollient just as many other naturally-occuring fatty acids are. It helps reinforce skin's healthy barrier function for a smoother surface. Palmitic acid is saturated which means that its chain of 16 carbon atoms contains the maximal possible number of hydrogen atoms. Palmitic acid cannot turn rancid and is stable against oxidation. Its abbreviation is C16:0. Higher concentrations of palmitic acid can be found in avocado and wheat germ oil.

(Sources: www.dermaviduals.com/english/publications/problem-skin/essential-fatty-acids-cosmetic-from-inside-and-outside.html; www.cell.com/biophysj/abstract/S0006-3495%2894%2980629-0; and Biophysical Chemistry, August 2010, pages 144-156).