astaxanthin

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Astaxanthin is a breakthrough ingredient that has kept a relatively low profile in spite of its promises. In the animal kingdom, this dark red carotenoid pigment is present in the skin and tissues of a variety of sea creatures, including salmon, trout, and lobster, as well as certain birds, such as flamingo and quail. But its effects on humans have only recently become known, and its availability in cosmetics is (unfortunately) rather scarce. emerginC is one of the first to use this ingredient in its formulations.

Astaxanthin is believed to produce a number of actions in the body, providing both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protection. Research has shown that it can improve the appearance of skin in a number of ways including:

• Diminish appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Reduce puffiness around the eye
• Hydrate skin
• Calm inflammation
• Help restore even, smooth pigmentation

Where does it come from? In commercial products, astaxanthin is most often extracted from the marine microalgae haematococcus pluvialis, the richest known source for this natural pigment. The primary use of synthetic astaxanthin today is as an animal feed additive to impart coloration to farmed fish, such as salmon and red sea bream. A number of in-vitro experiments, in-vivo pre-clinical studies, and early-stage trials performed during the past five years have indicated the possibility that astaxanthin behaves as a curing agent against various health conditions. Because of its superb antioxidant potential, the demand for astaxanthin is expected to grow significantly in not only the nutraceutical, but also the cosmeceutical market in the near term.

How do antioxidants work? During normal cellular metabolism, environmental stressors such as UV light, smoke, pollution, and even oxygen create damaging by-products, or free radicals, that make the skin appear older than it actually is. A closer examination reveals that these factors cause reactive oxygen species (ROS) to build up in skin and inflict damage at a cellular level. Effectively shielding the skin and slowing down premature signs of aging caused by the environment, antioxidants scavenge free radicals and bind to them before they can do damage.

What's so great about astaxanthin? When ROS get embedded in the skin's surface, they cause lipid peroxidation of the top layer (stratum corneum), which reduces the natural barrier function. An excess of ROS can break down the collagen matrix, leading to wrinkle formation and loss of elasticity. In penetrating the skin and protecting each dermal layer from ROS-related damage, astaxanthin helps reduce moisture loss, promote smoothness, and elicit cellular renewal. Analyses have shown that astaxanthin is also an efficient absorber of specific ultraviolet sunlight rays that may contribute to skin aging and cancer. These properties explain why astaxanthin is included in topical skin care formulations.

How it compares to other antioxidants? When tested against common antioxidants, astaxanthin has demonstrated exceptional performance in combatting singlet oxygen, one of the strongest ROS, which directly damages biological lipids, proteins, and DNA. Despite some variance in numbers, there have been all sorts of claims about the superiority of astaxanthin. A clinical research study by Dr. Debasis Bagchi at Creighton University demonstrated that astaxanthin can eliminate free radicals 6,000 times more effectively than vitamin C, 800 times more than CoQ10, 550 times more than vitamin E and green tea, 75 times more than Alpha Lipoic Acid, and 20 times more than beta-carotene.

At around $325 per pound, astaxanthin is a rather expensive cosmetic ingredient.